Chilika at Dawn

The waters are silvery-gold, shimmering lightly in the morning sunlight. The fisherfolk are already hard at work; their days begin at the crack of dawn. Nets whirl elegantly, fanning out in a circle. There are no women in sight; fishing in Odisha appears to be a male-dominated task. The men are busy fixing torn nets…

Darbejaddi: Untrodden Territory

The mud path abruptly narrows and we brake sharply. Looks like the car won't go any further. We park it off the path in some shrubby vegetation, narrowly avoiding an army of procession ants (never ever let these little guys bite you; you'll be itching for days) as we climb out and tie on our…

Birds on the Brain: Green Imperial Pigeon

Dry leaves crunch beneath my sandals as I swerve to narrowly avoid the prickly bladed fronds of Pinanga dicksonii, a plant that frequently impedes my expeditions into Myristica swamps. A spine snags my shift regardless, nipping my skin through the woven material, and I yelp irritably. The loud 'trrrrrick' of the Indian bullfrog echoes through…

Malemane: Where Plastic Pollution Meets Primeval Forest

Just a few kilometers ahead of Kathalekan along the Siddapur-Honnavar highway, a hidden swamp wallows in the low-lying dense forests of the Sharavathi. Malemane (literally "forest-house" or "house in the forest") falls along the Kathalekan belt of swamps, an interconnected series of Myristica swamps along a perennial stream. Each successive swamp collects runoff from the…

Chaare: The Home of the Tiger God

Sacrality is a fascinating concept to explore, and many swamps in my study area of Uttara Kannada are considered sacred by local communities. One of these swamps is Chaare, a lovely, fenced swamp nestled in the crook of wet evergreen forest and (surprise, surprise) an arecanut plantation. Named for the small village that borders it,…